Trucks Super Dually

All Star Auto Body Thrash Crew

This week has sped by. I was invited to return  to the studio of Trucks! and participate in the paint job on their Super Dually project.

Day one and well into Day Two were spent sanding the HECK out of the Dually. Holy Crap, there is alot of surface area there! Toward the end of Day Two, I was able to get the bed painted in both colors (grey pearl metallic and a blue pearl) and clear coated.

The morning of day three, we were joined by Brian Finch, one of the build team that also helped on the Paint and Body Thrash. While he and Kevin prepped the doors, hood and fenders, I wet sanded the bed, (it had been baked the evening before), and prepared it for the application of the “Super Dually” name. We decided that I would try to get creative and spray out several different styles/colors of the name on a test panel Kevin had already painted in both colors, in an attempt to choose what fit the project best.

After lunch, we loaded the doors (4), fenders and hood into the booth and the next round of painting began. The three of us attacked the parts, spraying the grey sealer first, then the pearl grey, pearl blue and finally 3 coats of clear. Lastly, the baking ensued again.

Day four was begun by the application of the stencils for the “Super Dually” name. Into the booth I went with a custom-made candy blue pearl and my paint gun. And, oh yeah, Rob, the videographer extraordinair, followed me around the whole time. I have to admit, I find that very unnerving! Nonetheless, the graphic was sprayed, untaped and the entire bed was recleared and baked again. It never ceases to amaze me how much slicker/smoother clearcoat is when it is sprayed over a foundation of sanded/cured clear. Time well spent.

Once I exited the booth, and the bed had baked, we swapped it out for the cab assembly. Kevin and Brian had spent all morning final sanding it, as well as seam-sealing where needed and the required masking. Brian applied the sealer and pearl grey, then we masked the two-tone line, followed by me applying the pearl blue. Finally, Brian and I applied the clear coats. The baking then ensued.

Today, day 5, we took all the now painted parts into the studio. I wetsanded and polished the bed first, then we installed it, the doors, fenders and hood. Well, what do you know, there’s a truck in the studio! Because of rules, I cannot show any pictures of what we did, or the final product. After our (Brian and myself) individual interviews with Kevin,  we called it done.

Suffice it to say that we came a LONG way in 5 days. Painting that truck (in pieces) was like painting a subdivision, one house at at time! Would I do it again: ummmm….. yes. Thanks to Trucks!, RTM Studios, Blane, Rob, Kevin and Ryan. Call anytime, I’ll be there.

For all of you who want to be able to make fun of me, there is no specific air date. Once I have one, I might let you know.

Have (paint)Gun, Will Travel!



5 thoughts on “Trucks Super Dually”

  1. Your appearance on Trucks Super Dually has inspired me to take up a long abandoned project. I also have an Accuspray gun, but I’ve never been happy with it. I have always suspected it was just me, not the gun.

    Can I ask you a couple questions?

  2. Hey Randy, thanks for the reply. I suspect the first thing is that I should increase is my hose diameter and accompaning fittings. I have seen a drawing suggesting I need a 5/16 diameter hose, but of course I only see them available as 1/4, 3/8, 1/2. So, I assume I need a 3/8 hose.

  3. Randy,
    It’s was a very rusted out 83′ Subaru Station wagon with a ea81 push rod flat 4 and an automatic w/ push button 4WD. It only has 60k original miles but was rusted to shi…… from Chicago winters. It was/is more of a welding project than a body shop project so when I got all the rusted body work replaced, I lost interest. But now I’m retired and so have time to pursue.

    I have painted a few cars, 2 VW bugs, an OLDs Cerria, another Olds next model bigger. So after spraying the 2nd bug with a conventional spray gun and remembering the fumes so thick in my plastic sheet booth created in my 2.5 car garage I purchased a Binks Mach I siphon HVLP gun. I loved how much material is saved but never was happy with the finish I was putting down. So I would use the conventional gun for color coats and clears. I then bought the accuspray Model 10 but it didn’t do me much better.

    So, I’m back to the project, if you are interested I can send you some pictures, but I hate to take too much of your time, if you could guide me through a few things you have learned about the Accuspray I would be grateful.

    Reviewing the Binks Mach I manual leads me to believe I need to get a larger diameter hose and fittings for HVLP. I am considered a 25ft 3/8 hose and devilbis wide bore fittings at three stations around the garage so the shorter 25ft hose can be moved and not be too long.

    My garage has a 5 hp 60 gal tank through a series of filters to an overhead (pvc) piping system which supplies drop piping to stations on all three walls. I piped it according to guidelines for setting up air system with correct drops and drains at each leg, all sloping back to the compressor.

    Regarding the Accuspray gun itself it has a delrin cap w/ an no. nine on it. and I haven’t yet been able to determine the fluid nozzle size. Most of the latest paint speck sheets I see make reference to tip sizes such 1.4, etc. I believe that is 1.4 mm. But the Accuspray manuals I downloaded don’t use the mm sizing as far as I can tell, so what can you tell me regarding ongoing gun maintenance and tip sizes for different materials.

    Thanks again for your time Randy,

    1. What I want to clarify first is your need for CFM. All of these guns, meaning HVLP, need a relatively large amount of airflow. I am concerned that your compressor will not keep up with any HVLP gun, especially the Accuspray. At that point, no gun will perform up to its intended capabilities. What is the CFM of your compressor, rated at 90 psi? If you put a blower on the end of an air hose and leave it wide open, will your compressor turn on, and then back off while the air is escaping the hose? In other words, does the air leave the tank faster than the compressor can replace it? If it does, then the gun will never work properly, or you will always be waiting on the compressor to ‘catch up’. Have you considered their turbine system? It is stand alone and will take your compressor out of the equation.

      Also, be careful using PVC tubing for the air system. It does not let the air cool down, which metal tubing will do. By having a metal-based system, the air cools, water condenses out of the air and then your line drops and your air dryers can catch it. If it is still atomized in the air, the water gets all the way to your gun and then is trapped in your product that you are spraying. That can lead to fisheyes, blistering/pimpling of the paint and even rust on the metal (when applying the initial protective coat on the metal, we use an epoxy primer for that). I am not telling you to re-plumb your shop, as it sounds like you have done a nice job of routing things and thought it through as much as possible. I just want you to be aware of the characteristics of the plastic piping as it relates to air quality. Years ago I used it here in Houston, and it was a nightmare. Never again. Lastly, if the compressor is constantly running because it cannot keep up with your spray gun, then the air is always very hot, which is a moisture problem waiting to happen. Plastic lines just make that problem more likely, and significant. Plastic is a heat insulator, metal is a heat dissipator. That is the difference.

      You will need, at minimum, a 3/8″ hose to supply the gun(s). Also, get the Hi-flow (or HVLP) air fittings that have a large orifice (not a 1/4″ typical “Milton” style). The 1/4″ are fine for air tools and sanders, but not for a high performance paint gun. Because of how the air caps break up the liquid into smaller particles, the volume of air is more important than the pressure. Look at the size of the air holes in an HVLP air cap versus an old Binks #7 or similar. You’ll see it.

      As for the Accuspray gun, I almost always only use it for base coats. Especially candies, pearls and metallics. That is the only purpose I have for that gun. I have other guns that apply primers, sealers and clears. That is not to say that the Accuspray won’t apply them well, I just have never wanted/needed to use it for that. I does a spectacular job of applying difficult products very evenly and at a noticeable material savings. Its efficiency also means more product gets put on the panel and there is less overspray. In a home-based environment, that can be very important, not to mention the dollars saved on these extremely expensive liquids we apply. I have painted a couple 24′+ car hauler trailers in my open shop, and then I did apply the sealer/base/clear with the Accuspray. It did fine and put on a ‘normal’ finish with much less overspray or turbulence (stirs up dust). Color sanding and polishing would have made it as good as any other we apply in our booth. We color sand and polish everything anyway, so that’s not a big deal to me. Left unpolished, it resembled any “factory” type finish that a car or truck would have. Does a Sata spray clear nicer? Yes, but when color sanding, overspray issues and material savings are part of the equation, the Accuspray makes a lot of sense.

      My Accuspray conventional cup gun set up (10, pressurized cup), for basecoats, is a #7 Gold cap and a #36 fluid tip and needle (stainless). I also have the same in a gravity feed style (10G-big and bulky, but sprays 98% as well as the cup gun, not pressurized). It is set up with a #705 purple cap and a #61 fluid tip and needle (delrin). I think the fluid tip/needle numbers are to indicate thousandths of an inch, but I am not sure on that point. Either one I spray at about 40-45 psi on the Accuspray gauge at the gun.

      I was not aware of this until now, but it appears that 3M has bought Accuspray. I went poking around and there is very little literature concerning tip sizes and material usage definitions. The original Accuspray packaging had a great chart that helped with tip selection. They also had very good phone support. I am not sure that 3M will be the same, but I could be wrong. The fact that a huge global company such as 3M has purchased them is an indicator that the product works. They used to have their own line of paint guns, but I guess if you can’t beat ‘em, buy ‘em!

      I apologize that this got long-winded, but as I typed, more things needed to be added. I am sure I have not covered it all, so feel free to get back in touch with me. Take care and good luck.

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